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Question:
hi
i got Canon Eos 50 /ElanII
how to use fill in flash?
how to preview the dEP?
thanks
Answer:
Sorry I can't help you with this question - I own Nikon's. Each model flash is different, some allow you to program the flash differently from the camera, this is the type of flash that you should have.
The best source for this information is the "Lantern Series of Books" they have them for all of the different camera manufacturers and models.
Good Luck!
Question:
Hello Garry,
I write a monthly newsletter for my art league. Many members would like to
know how they can photograph their artwork themselves. Do you have any
pointers for the amateur? We live in a small NC town and local professional
services are few and/or some of our members don't want to pay for
professional work for all their photos and for their personal documentation.
Appreciate your help.
Answer:
I am assuming that your members will be using 35mm SLR (Single Lens Reflex) cameras - and not point and shoot cameras.
One of the most difficult aspects of photographing artwork is to get the camera square with the artwork. A tripod will help in placement of the camera as well as giving the ability of using a long shutter speed. The camera should be placed so that it is completely horizontal and vertical to the artwork. (In other words the center of the lens should be completely perpendicular to the center artwork.)
The economical route (less equipment to buy) is using available daylight. The best conditions are on an overcast day, at mid day. Depending on the film that you are using, you may need to use a warming filter (#81A), this will take the bluish cast away. Never photograph artwork on a sunny day in the direct sunlight.
The best lens to use is the standard 50mm lens or a short telephoto (85 - 105mm). Don't use a wide angle lens as it will distort (curve) the edges of the artwork. The aperture should be F8 and the shutter speed will be determined by the amount of light that is present at the time you are taking the pictures. Just keep in mind that the exposure meters in cameras want to make everything averaged into a mid grey tone. So if the artwork is light then you will have to overexpose to obtain the correct exposure. Conversely, if the artwork is darker than mid grey then you will have to underexpose from what the meter recommends to obtain the proper exposure. If this sounds too confusing, then I would suggest using a "Grey Card" to determine your exposure. You hold this in the same light as your artwork, ensuring that if fills the camera viewfinder completely, and take this meter reading and use that shutter speed to take your pictures.
There is even a more complicated way, using studio flashes - but I think you should stick with the simplest method.
I hope this helps, if you need further assistance, just ask!
Question:
I saw your just ask section on your website.
I am going on vacation to the Rocky mountain area in a couple of days and
there are several wildfires blazing right now. What is the best way to
capture fire on film night and day?
And
What is the best way to get a decent shot of the full moon?
Answer: (I answered this question after being away, for some time.)
You have probably returned home by now, so I don't know if you still need the technique of photographing fire. But for future reference, forest fires are pretty difficult to photograph. There is usually more smoke than flames, but very once and a while there will be a burst of flames - but you should very close to the fire line to get these shots. I wouldn't recommend getting that close unless you are with a firefighter.
The shot of a full moon is much easier. The basic exposure is F16 and the shutter speed would be the closest to the film speed that you are using. For example if you are using 100 ISO film then the exposure would be 1/125 (or 1/90 if you have a newer camera) at F16. This will give you a moon shot with quite a bit a detail - but it will probably appear a little to dark. I usually shoot the moon at 1/125 at F11 (with 100 ISO film).
The exposure for a crescent moon (with 100 ISO film) is 1/125 at F5.6
Hope this has helped you.
Question:
Garry,
My dad gave a 35 mm pentax camera, and I have no idea what I'm doing I'm
familiar with some of the features but I still don't know how and when to set
the different features such as the f stop and the distance and the balance
needle in the middle of the camera.
please help,
Answer:
Go to this web site http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/pictureTaking/index.shtml
The information that Kodak has provided on these pages is excellent. If you have any questions after you have read them, I would be happy to help you.
Question:
Garry,
I just came upon your web site and I'm very grateful, because I'm just
learning. For some reason I can't seem to grasp the concept of bracketing, I
was reading in Popular Photography about shooting sunsets and it seems that
they are all talking about bracketing and pushing the film. I love sunsets
and landscape shots, but I feel like I'm wasting my time because I'm not
getting on film what I'm seeing in front of me. Can you help me out? PLEASE!!
I'm using a Nikon N60, I have a 35 to 80 mm along with a 300 mm, I know that
I also need to look into a wide angle lens to get a better landscape shot.
Can you recommend one for me as well.
Any advice you give would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance
Answer:
Your problem with bracketing and not understanding it (or seeing a difference in between the bracketed shots) in your pictures could be due to the film that you are using. If you are using print film, you will probably never see a difference in bracketed shots, unless you have bracketed by 3 stops or more. The reason for this is that during the printing stage the lab will "correct" any over or under exposure.
If you want to see the effect of bracketing, you should be using slide film. As you get exactly what you shoot in the way of exposure. One of the properties of film, whether it is slide or print, is that neither will record the scene exactly as you see it. You will start to "see" how film sees the more you shoot. You will then be able to use that knowledge creatively.
As for a wide angle lens, everyone has a favourite - mine is a 24mm.
Hope this helps you,
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